Sotogrande, So Good!
I headed to the Costa del Sol in early April to spend a few days on the fairways with my son and father. Three generations, three different view points but one overwhelming decision…It’s a fabulous destination.
Of course, Malaga Airport is particularly well served by UK airports. A modern, quite large airport it’s was well set-up for the new fingerprint requirements with a dozen scanners providing easy-to-follow instructions and you then go to the passport control. The whole process took no longer than 20 minutes and we arrived in the luggage hall in time to see our clubs and luggage come round the carousel.
I’d hired a Citroen C5 Aircross but was kindly upgraded to a Skoda Kodiaq – a brand new seven seater that is perfect for up to four people with clubs when you put the rear seats down. Comfortable and modern, it’s a super smooth but fairly bland drive. However, we nearly regretted the size of the car when we went to Seville…More of that later.
The drive to Sotogrande – the smart side of the Costa del Sol – takes just over an hour on the scenic motorway (Gibraltar Airport is even closer). The countryside and views of the Mediterranean are spectacular and you can add rugged and completely unspoilt for the last 20 minutes. It’s a splendid and visual reminder that you’re in the generous geography of Andalucia which has been the pride of the Phoenicians, Romans and the Moors (the name of the region stems from the leader of the Moors, Al Andalus). Christians came in the late 15th-century and the region grew incredibly wealthy with agriculture and trade with the Americas. That trade now includes tourism and over 110 golf courses, of which the area in and around Sotogrande boasts nearly 10 superb layouts, some rated among Europe’s very finest.
We checked in to the Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol – a new five-star hotel with two golf courses, three restaurants, an outstanding choice of bedroom categories and spacious and luxurious architecture (pictured above). Service is incredibly friendly and our 50m2 bedrooms came with excellent showers and baths, large balconies overlooking The Links golf course and sea. We had a late lunch at the hotel’s poolside brasserie – the freshest of fish washed down with a local white wine. The holiday had truly started.
While my father rested and my son explored the resort, I took a tour round The Heathland course. The clubhouse is a three-minute drive from the hotel (the hotel valets provide a free shuttle service) and shared with The Links. Although The Links grabs the headlines and the views, I think The Heathland is a more varied challenge with several excellent holes. The conditioning of The Heathland is relatively weak with some bunkers needing to be redefined and the buggy paths very rough in parts but the Director of Golf is well aware of the work they need to do and I saw several teams of green-keepers doing some serious work. It’s an undulating layout with enticing fairways and demands on your iron play. The green complexes are excellent. I look forward to The Heathland reaching its potential and the resort would be foolish not to realise that they have a potential gem on their hands.
We had dinner in the hotel that night. Not the Michelin-starred affair but its more casual bistro. Service was friendly and the food fine without being fantastic. Being the final day of The Masters, we will all looking forward to watching the last few hours in the hotel bar, only to be disappointed. The “Library” will open later this year and will be a relaxed but upmarket sports-bar affair with large screen and I’m also told that one of the current lounges will be made more convivial. Maybe the current lounges looked good on the designer’s spec but they lack warmth and fun…Hotels invariably change things for the better after opening and I am very confident that La Hacienda will mature into a first-class resort.
The beds are top-notch and the sight of the warm Mediterranean and strong sunlight the following morning reminded me why travel is so good for the soul. The breakfast is a buffet and waiter-service affair and very generous. Again, service was faultless. We were teeing off at The Links at 10.30 and managed to hit a few balls on the huge practice ground before two of us lost our tee-shots off the first! Things got better with our Mulligans. The Links is a clever design with a general tendency of shortish par fours, tight par threes and long par fives. The greens were slick and true. Any bad score was the result of a bad swing, not bad luck. It’s a course to play at least twice as I now realise that you don’t need to be particularly aggressive to get your tee-shot in the best position. The halfway house looks out over the sea and Gibraltar and the sandwiches and drinks went down very well. The back nine is arguably the better despite being tighter with the straightforward 10th and 11th giving you the chance for a few points before the course becomes more subtle and the greens narrower. This is a very enjoyable golf course.
My son and I had a workout and tried the masochistic mix of hammam, sauna and cold-dip. For dinner and as a birthday treat for my son, we went to the five-star Hotel MIM Sotogrande on the marina, owned by Lionel Messi. This is a boutique hotel without the glam or facilities of the Fairmont but the rooftop bar and pool, wonderful vibe and location more than make up for any lack of leisure opportunities. And the food was fantastic. In fact, we shared 14 courses between us including Messi’s Grandma’s cannelloni, a stunning marinaded steak and the Golden Ball dessert. We defy anyway to finish the Golden Ball on their own (my father made a valiant effort) – it’s probably 3000 calories wrapped up in a tempered chocolate football. My son “made do” with 500gm of ice cream and I had a delicious Tarta de Queso. The setting was wonderful, staff great fun and we managed to waddle to our taxi.
On the subject of taxis, most of our clients prefer that we arrange private airport and golf transfers for which we use a very good company with modern and sleek SUV’s. To get to and from restaurants (and the best recommendations for local dining), I use a firm based in Sotogrande and they are always available with, seemingly, a flat fee of €30 to get you and your chums to your restaurant in comfort.
A good sleep and hearty breakfast set me up to take a visit to Finca Cortesin, La Duquesa and Hacienda del Mar. These three hotels are all very different but tick the boxes for different kinds of clients. Finca Cortesin is world class in every aspect – it’s a stunning property with bedrooms, restaurants, design, spa and golf course to match. Host to the Solheim Cup, the golf course is a visual treat. Set slightly inland, the valets will take you to the resort’s private beach club. Dining is superb with up to five restaurants to choose from. Some hotels are expensive and over-priced. Finca Cortesin is expensive but provides an extra-ordinary experience. Finca Cortesin is 25 minutes east of Sotogrande, heading towards Estepona.
A little closer to Sotogrande, and on the other spectrum of prices, is La Duquesa. La Duquesa was a firm favourite for many years but fell on hard times about 15 years ago and struggled until 2024 when a new owner with huge ambition bought the venue. The new hotel is a beautiful four-star boutique property with a very Moorish design and large, generous bedrooms. The nearly-all-female team provide a friendly ambience and the terrace, yoga classes and putting green were all busy with everyone having a relaxed time. There’s also a brand new croquet lawn. The bedrooms look out over the golf course and mountains on one side and the road, the Duquesa castle and sea on the other. This is only hotel I know where the sea view bedrooms are the cheapest but don’t worry about the noise as the road is not that busy and the windows are completely sound proofed with air conditioning to match. This is a place where you know attention-to-detail is important. Superb value too. The golf course is a work in progress with a huge programme of improvements, irrigation and olive planting going on. The hotel is ready now, the golf course is fine for a warm up on your first day but won’t be at its best until late 2027 I reckon. In the meantime, La Duquesa is a great choice for a cosy hotel just 20 minutes from the wonderful choice of Sotogrande golf courses and a 30- second walk from the seaside town of Duquesa for your evening.
Melia Hacienda del Mar is another new hotel. This time, five-star and 30 minutes from the Sotogrande golf courses, sitting on the beach and within walking distance of the large resort of Estepona. I’ve known this hotel in various guises over the years but I’ve never seen it look so relevant and stylish. A big hotel with exotic gardens, three restaurants, the fabulous Lobby Bar and light, airy bedrooms, this is the place to go to be seen, be close enough to the best golf courses and have a lot of fun in the evening.
Feeling very happy and impressed after the hotel visits, I collected my son and father and headed to Valderrama. What a treat. Exclusive and classy without ever being over-the-top, the welcome and attention is sensational. My father, who often played at Valderrama, San Roque and Real Sotogrande with my mother and their friends until the turn of the century, loved the experience and didn’t want to leave. We had a few minutes to hit some balls and then tackled the beast that is Valderrama. I knew we were going to paired up with the son of a golfing friend of mine in South Carolina. The son plays off Plus 5, was a big name in the US collegiate golf scene and hits the ball as far as I’ve seen it be hit. The course was in immaculate condition as usual and we all managed to get a couple of birdies, a few pars and too many bogeys or worse…In other words, my usual Valderrama result! But I love it. My son rates it as his best golf experience yet. I don’t think he’ll find many better. It’s tough but masochistically inviting. I made the mistake of walking with a push trolley with blisters from my new shoes. The course is walkable but I would definitely go for a Caddie next time. My father was wise and happy in his buggy. After a couple of drinks on the panoramic terrace and buying the obligatory logoed cap, we headed the 20 minutes back to the Fairmont.
Dinner that night was at the other end of the financial scale with a low-key and wonderfully relaxed dinner at Midas on the old polo fields but now a thriving tennis centre. The restaurant also acts as the clubhouse so there’s a buzz and youthful energy around the bar with tables on the terrace and further inside the building. The cocktails were strong, the wine good value and the food hearty and local. It was a fine end to a fulfilling but long day.
After checking out of the Fairmont, we played San Roque Old the following day and, out of all the courses in the area, I’d probably choose this to be a Member. It’s smart and exclusive without being overhard on the wallet and there’s a very strong competitive scene with a great practice ground and serious leaning towards young and talented golfers. The adjacent hotel, formerly known as the San Roque Club, has at long last re-opened as a trendy four-star Inmood just yards from both the Old and New courses. San Roque New – although simpler than it’s famous sister – is a very pleasant track with some super holes and a low green fee. I can well imagine three or four nights at the Inmood and two rounds each at the two San Roque courses and no travel to think of (except if I wanted to explore the restaurants and apres-golf scene in the evening). The hotel pool area is the focal social point and the bedroom “villas” are dotted around the gardens. The bedrooms are smallish (22m2 but up to 38m2 plus terrace) and there’s a club storage facility. There are two restaurants and two bars. San Roque Old clubhouse is just a lob wedge away. The course at San Roque Old is in fantastic condition and it’s demanding but fun, easy to walk and I think most golfers would fancy getting 34 or more points on their second round.
A late lunch at San Roque was followed by the 20 minute drive to the five-star So Sotogrande Hotel, Valderrama Golf Club is halfway between the two. As the crow flies San Roque and So Sotogrande are only about 2km apart. In fact, take a look at Google Maps and check how close all the courses are to each other: 10 beautiful golf courses all within a 2-20 minute drive of each other!
So Sotogrande is a remodelling of the Almenara hotel and much-improved it is too. The hotel benefits from the mature gardens and vibe of a long-established structure but it comes with modern flair, design and terrific facilities. The bedrooms are large enough with good bathrooms and some have a very handy secure terrace where you can leave your clubs. There are four restaurants plus inland beach club, two bars and umpteen pools. The main bar was buzzing and we enjoyed some excellent tapas. Breakfast the following day was the most generous of the trip with the freshest of orange juices and the warmest of smiles greeting you as soon as you sat down for the served breakfast.
My son and I had 27 holes to play so we took the buggy round the front nine of the much improved Alto (formerly Almenara) and started our game at the uphill par three ninth hole. Alto is a enjoyable layout with reasonable demands of your game off the tee, good bunkers and true greens. It used to be an “okay” 27-hole course but the weakest 9 have been closed with a lot of the space dedicated to an up-and-coming Golf Academy (our clients staying and playing at So Sotogrande/Alto have free access to the range). The remaining 18 holes have been remodelled and more effort made on the maintenance – it’s definitely paying off and I would suggest that the back nine are the most peaceful and bucolic of all the golf courses in this very privileged part of the world.
Next up that day, La Reserva Golf Club is rated as one of the very best in Spain and it’s a tough test off the back (7400 yards) with fiendish greens making sure that your work isn’t finished until the ball is in the hole. I’m guessing that Cabell Robinson’s remit when designing the course was to make it a test for the best. It’s hosted several Tour events, the par fives are proper par fives and the par threes are shortish but demand precision. Although not easy on your scorecard, La Reserva is a stunning set up, hugely enjoyable and with a clubhouse among the finest in Europe. In fact, the clubhouse is also a trendy “beach club” with sun loungers, two restaurants with waiter service, swimming pool and sports lagoon. It’s a very clever set-up and only open to pre-bookings, members and residents of So Sotogrande hotel.
Playing La Reserva is quite expensive but we have a terrific green-fee rate when staying at So Sotogrande. A stay at So Sotogrande, playing Alto and La Reserva and enjoying the facilities of the hotel and La Reserva beach club would tick my wish list most of the time. It’s also a cost-effective way of enjoying the top quality.
We didn’t play Real Sotogrande on this trip but it’s one of my very favourite. Rated No 2. In Spain (behind Valderrama), it’s a private club that welcomes the occasional visitor, so ask us to book at least four months in advance. One of the oldest courses on the Costa del Sol and designed by Trent Jones Senior, Real Sotogrande is subtle and classy in every respect. Located on the coast, it’s a lovely spot and the clubhouse and course are maintained to perfection and are more relevant than ever. The green-fee is, relatively speaking, reasonable value.
After playing La Reserva we drove the 2 ½ hours to Seville, past Cadiz and the cluster of pleasant golf courses and hotels (Montecastillo, Fairplay and Iberostar among them) and through the far-reaching plains of inland Andalucia. Seville is a vibrant and ancient city so we made a schoolboy error when we hit traffic – instead of patiently waiting in the queue, we asked Waze (and Google Maps) for a short cut…This is where driving a 2m wide car is a serious disadvantage and we ended up in streets 1.7m wide! We would probably still be there if it wasn’t for a local driver in a big Volvo go down the tiny street. So off we went in pursuit – all wheels on the pavement, wheel hubs screeching, retracted wing mirrors scraping the walls…And pedestrians pressing themselves against doorways. Three minutes later, the Volvo was no longer in sight but the impossible had become the possible and we burst out on the main cathedral square a few minutes later. I’m still not sure how we did it and, equally amazing, the car did not have a scratch! The valet at the Mercer Catedral Sevilla was impressed we’d arrived via the “wrong direction”, escorted us to the Reception and served us something strong. I didn’t want to see the car again so the valet took it to only he knows where.
The Mercer hotel is a delight. It’s a boutique five-star literally 30 yards from the cathedral and with a roof top bar and pool, tapas and wine bar, street bar and the friendliest of staff. It’s an historic hotel so there are twists and turns to choose wherever you’re heading but it’s a very pleasant place from where to explore the wonderful city. Drinking and dining is less expensive than Sotogrande as there are more residents than high-end tourists but you need to choose carefully and go for the smaller restaurants. We had a late night drink on the rooftop bar, overlooking the lit roof of the cathedral. Magical. For a city hotel, it was pretty quiet but I’m a light sleeper and the binmen woke me at 6am. My son didn’t stir until breakfast at 8am. Breakfast was less bountiful than on the coast but fresh and tasty.
We checked-out of the hotel and the Valet brought the car around. The drive to Real Sevilla Golf Club takes about 20 minutes and you arrive through a gated entrance. The clubhouse is low and long and a beautiful deep ochre. Again, the welcome was strong and we had a quick warm up on the fantastic range and chipping green complex. This club attracts the well-heeled of the area and the restaurant at lunchtime was thriving with a few golfers and lots of non-golfers.
The golf course itself is a Jose Maria Olazabal treat (and fantastic value too). Easy to walk and beautifully presented, I would suggest that the layout was the most generous of our trip but it’s definitely no walkover with punishing bunkers and slick greens. With a great mix of short and long, left and right design and a peaceful ambience while playing, it’s easy to see why Real Sevilla is rated in Spain’s Top 20. My father is very keen to head back to Seville and stay and play there and I would certainly recommend it for a boys trip with a difference or a romantic golf getaway.
We didn’t play at nearly Real Pineda but I know it’s a highly-reputed sports club for the well-to-do with golf, tennis, swimming and croquet. With competitive green-fees and the wonderful city (as well as keen flight costs to Seville), I recommend Seville if you’re looking for somewhere away from norm and good value too.
After a decent lunch on the clubhouse terrace at Real Sevilla, we dropped my son at the airport for his flight back to his studies in Turin and my father and I had an hour or so touring the clothes outlet a few miles from the airport. The outlet concept is a new experience for my father but he bought more clothes than me so he’s the best dressed man on the fairways at the moment.
Dropping the hire car off and going through check-in and passport control was fairly easy. It’s an old airport and signage isn’t that great but we took off on time. My father is 86 years old and needs airport assistance these days as you never know how long the walk and wait will be but the staff were brilliant at Gatwick, Malaga and Seville and he did extremely well on what was a very busy, but really rewarding, golf trip.
Not just overall, but every single aspect of the visit was memorable for all the best reasons. It’s a great excuse for some family time but the welcome heat after the long UK winter, the fabulous golf courses, hotel comforts as well as the food recharged us all. As they say, “travel is the only thing you buy that makes you richer”.
Notes
Family activities: Summer time is family time at Sotogrande with summer camps for golf, tennis, padel, football and water sports at La Reserva Club (So Sotogrande) and more tailor-made activities at Finca Cortesin and Fairmont La Hacienda. Try the Zoo de Castellar for a boutique conservation project – including porcupines, tigers and crocodiles – none of which I would like to cuddle!
Golf Practice: All the golf courses have practice grounds but the most impressive are at Alto, San Roque and, for sheer panache, Valderrama
Tennis: Famous for golf, the Sotogrande region is also exceptional for tennis
Exploring: The ancient cities of Cadiz, Jerez and Seville are within easy reach for a day out. Gibraltar is 20-30 minutes and you can even take a ferry from Tarifa to Tangiers, Estepona has the largest collection of orchids and a necropolis and there’s a scenic train journey from San Roque to Ronda, the coastal cable cars at Benalmadena and mountain cable car at Monte Calemorro which includes a stop at the Mountain of Eagles
Festivals: Spain is a very vibrant Catholic country and the centuries-old Magna Procession of the Holy Burial at San Roque starts at 4pm every Good Friday. Religious, artistic, theatrical, it’s beautiful
Example Itineraries (all prices based on four people in the party. Holidays can be tailored made to suit you)
Play & Stay at Fairmont La Hacienda Costa del Sol
- Private return airport transfers (Malaga or Gibraltar)
- Seven nights’ bed and breakfast in a Poolside Twin/Double bedroom
- Three rounds at Hacienda Heathland
- Two rounds at Hacienda Links
£1450 per person in October & November, £1560 in April, May & September, £1730 in June, July & August
Play & Stay at So Sotogrande
- Private return airport transfers (Malaga or Gibraltar)
- Five nights’ bed and breakfast in a Twin/Double bedroom
- Three rounds including buggy at Alto
- One round including buggy at La Reserva
- Four days’ access to the driving range
£1075 per person November 16-30, £1215 in April, May, June & Sep 1-Nov 15, £1675 July & August
Sensational golf at Melia Hacienda del Mar
- Private return airport transfers (Malaga or Gibraltar)
- Seven nights’ bed and breakfast in a Superior Twin/Double bedroom
- Daily dinner (excluding drinks)
- Golf including private return transfers at La Reserva
- Golf including private return transfers at Valderrama
- Golf including private return transfers at Real Sotogrande
- Golf including private return transfers at Finca Cortesin
- Golf including private return transfers at La Hacienda
£3225 per person May & Oct 13-31, £3315 person in June, July & Sep 20-Oct 12, £3459 Jul 2-15
World-class luxury at Finca Cortesin
- Private return airport transfers (Malaga or Gibraltar)
- Six nights’ bed and breakfast in a Junior Suite Twin/Double bedroom
- Welcome drink, tapas, fruit, water and flowers in bedroom
- Golf including private return transfers at La Reserva
- Golf including private return transfers at Valderrama
- Golf including private return transfers at Real Sotogrande
- Golf including private return transfers at Finca Cortesin
- Golf including private return transfers at La Hacienda
£3225 per person May & Oct 13-31, £3315 person in June, July & Sep 20-Oct 12, £3459 Jul 2-15
Explore the coast from La Duquesa
- Private return airport transfers (Malaga or Gibraltar)
- Five nights’ bed and breakfast in a Superior Golf View Twin/Double bedroom at the four-star La Duquesa Golf Hotel
- Welcome dinner
- Golf including private return transfers at San Roque Old
- Golf including buggy and private return transfers at Finca Cortesin
- Golf including buggy and private return transfers at La Hacienda
£1315 per person March to November
Play & Stay at San Roque Old & New
- Private return airport transfers (Malaga or Gibraltar)
- Five nights’ bed and breakfast in a Twin/Double Deluxe bedroom at the four-star Inmood Hotel
- Three rounds at San Roque Old
- One round at San Roque New
Awaiting special offer