Report from Scotland

West Coast Scotland and Perthshire

Not so long ago, I took my children to the land of their ancestors – Scotland.  We took in a wonderful mix of accommodations, some classic golf courses and sampled the magnificent scenery.   All of this in perfect weather while the rest of the UK was getting drenched.

We had a total of 12 nights including one en-route stop-off, a night near Loch Lomond, a couple of nights on the Isle of Machrie, three sensational nights at glorious Gleneagles and then a few nights in a self-catering lodge.   I also took the time to visit a couple more hotels and we played a total of 81 holes.    The holiday was pretty much concentrated on the west coast and its islands.

The overall verdict was 9 ½ /10 from all three of us…The only downside was the lack of access to a good fishmonger or butcher while we were self-catering (plus the shock of the check-out bill at Gleneagles for me!).

My daughter and Teddy the dog at Machrie beach

Here’s the inside report on the golf courses and hotels and a few ideas on what would make great resort and two-centre holidays.

To get to Scotland, you need to decide whether you’re going to drive, fly or take the train.   I’ve always found taking the train with golf clubs to be cumbersome so I’m not a fan unless I organise a decent set of hire clubs at the destination.  Flights to Scotland from London are frequent and inexpensive and I’ve got good rates for hire cars, but the self-drive option was a “no-brainer” as we had a lot of luggage, three sets of clubs plus the family dog (Teddy) to bring.

Living in south-east England has lots of advantages with proximity to London, the countryside and the coast being among them but it is undeniable that England becomes even more beautiful about an hour north of London.  There’s less traffic too so driving becomes a pleasure and we made good time to get to The Crown & Cushion Pub & Hotel in Appleby  where I had booked an apartment.  The apartment was in the heart of the village and beautifully appointed with all the mod-cons in two bedrooms, good bathroom, great kitchen and lounge.  Unfortunately, my daughter had picked up an ear infection on a recent surfing trip to France and the pain was becoming acute so she and I spent three hours getting a prescription in the practically empty hospital where staff were very friendly but had to repeat their colleagues’ enquiries three times before we could get the necessary paperwork.  Mission accomplished we headed back to Appleby where my son had organised an Indian takeaway as the local restaurants were closing fast during our time at A&E.

After a good night’s rest, we repacked the car and drove about two hours to get to Loch Lomond where we stretched our legs on a few holes of the Cameron Club…The scenery is well-known to be superb and the golf course was pretty but I was little underwhelmed by the set-up and infrastructure of the accommodation.  From there it was a beautiful hour’s drive along the lake and then across to Strachur which sits on the east bank of Loch Fyne and near the Trossachs National Park.  We had two beautiful bedrooms at The Creggans Inn waiting for us.   The bedrooms are quite “Laura Ashley” in style and the bathrooms could be updated but the welcome, atmosphere and décor all made for a very enjoyable short stay.  We had a late lunch at a nearby teashop and an early and delicious dinner and drinks at the hotel.  This is where my hopes of finding a great fishmonger and butcher shot up as I had wonderfully fresh scallops and lamb cooked by a young Chef.  Run by a retired policeman and his elegant wife, I would recommend The Creggans Inn for a relaxing two or three nights – the food and comfort is good enough and the lakeside location provides an idyllic setting.   No such leisurely timescale for us though as we had an early ferry to catch.

After a splendid 90 minute drive around the enormous Loch Fyne, we arrived in good time at Kennacraig Port only to find out that the usual ferry had been replaced by a smaller vessel and we had to travel as foot passengers.   Not to be deterred, I booked a taxi to pick us up at the other end (Port Ellen), micro-packed the luggage, squeezed the three sets of clubs into two bags and walked up the plank with an excited Teddy following eagerly.  The 2 ¼ hour crossing was delightful and I wish all ferry staff could be as friendly.   We were Meeted and Greeted by the taxi driver who whisked us away while all the other passengers were wondering how to get from the port to their destination on an island with only two taxis!

The ferry from Port Kennacraig to Islay

Machrie is an island that is experiencing new growth after seeing its population dwindle since the 1950’s.  Eco-tourism and disillusion with the mainland is bringing both tourists and youngsters back.  Life is a heady blend of the sea, farmland, ancient towns and villages and modern technology.    And The Machrie Golf Resort (main picture and now known as Another Place Machrie) is the perfect example – recently built, most of it looks like a typical collection of farm buildings but inside the comfort and style is definitely on the contemporary side with super-slick service, a very warm welcome and an international staff (locals, South African, French and Eastern European).   We loved it and the bedroom was plenty big for the three of us plus dog.  We also had a terrace which was an ideal short-cut to the golf course and beach.   We arrived in time for a decent lunch before playing golf.

Machrie Golf Club, Islay

Machrie is a very, very good golf course and it’s worth the “hassle” of the journey just to play the course.   But with less-than-simple travel come the benefits: it’s slower travel so you appreciate the scenery and your companions more and it also means there are fewer tourists who are willing to make the trip.   The golf course is a modern links with the feel that its been there 100 years.   The fairways are large enough to give you confidence but you soon find out you can’t just “grip it and rip it” – Machrie demands and deserves your concentration and a proper study of the course planner will pay dividends.  The greens are quick and true, the maintenance of the highest order.   None of us scored particularly well but we were all eager to play it again.   My advice is to play Matchplay as there are three or four holes that could ruin your hitherto carefully-constructed card.   Dinner overlooking the coast was again excellent although service was a little too rushed as there was a staff party they were eager to join in with.

The second round at Machrie was as enjoyable as the first and I would heartily recommend the destination as three nights’ dinner, bed, breakfast and golf venue with a bit of whisky tasting thrown in for good measure.  And for those of you who don’t want  to take the ferry or are in a hurry, you can get to The Machrie Golf Resort in just 20 minutes from Glasgow Airport from where the hotel staff will collect you…After all, the airstrip is practically at the bottom of the practice ground!

Machrie Golf Club

Our ferry back to the mainland was easy and we piled back into the car and drove the 2 ½ hours north-east to   Again, the driving was a pleasure and the reception at Gleneagles is super smooth – two people to take your luggage, one to open the car doors, one to welcome you and one to escort you to the Front Desk.   The service at Gleneagles is unbelievably good – not only did they know my name, but the names of my children and the dog.   Attention to detail.  The bedroom itself was good and the beds and bathroom had all the trimmings.  I’m guessing that our room was relatively tired compared to the others I saw as we had a dog.  A word of warning for dog owners – Gleneagles charges £100 a night for the dog and you need to bring your own food.  However, Teddy was welcomed like royalty.

Gleneagles

After signing off the first bar and dinner bill, I reminded myself that, with sublime service, comes a higher bill.  You gets what you pays for.

The public rooms at the hotel are luxurious, the gardens are wonderful and the facilities probably the best I’ve experienced – and I’ve been to many marvellous places!  Sure, other resorts have better weather and beaches and hugely-impressive facilities but Gleneagles is surrounded by incredible vistas and a staffing expertise which is second-to-none.   We took advantage of the gym, spa, the splendid main restaurant, the grounds, croquet, tennis, pitch and putt and two of the three Championship courses.   I even had a battle of wills with a sadistic masseur from Eastern Europe – I didn’t give in but I had a sore back for two days!

The golf is deservedly famous and the Meet & Greet, Starter, condition and design of the courses are worth every penny.  We enjoyed a mix of birdies and lost balls in the heather.  The lesson – hit it straight rather than long and make sure you select the right club for your approach as the greens are enormous.   Wonderful golf that will linger long in the memory.

For food, the breakfast was a super-generous mix of buffet and A la Carte, lunch was in the pop-up seafood restaurant in the gardens and dinner was a formal affair as well as a casual affair in the American/Italian grill.   And what surprised me most since my previous visit was the clientele – younger, more international and fun.  When I asked the Front Office Manager about the changes, he explained that Gleneagles used to be run by a drinks group and now it’s run by hoteliers…In other words, the famous resort is reaching its fabulous potential.  Expensive it may be, but it’s worth every penny, even if you have to save up for it.

My daughter in the main dining room at Gleneagles

After reluctantly leaving Gleneagles, we headed west to Drymsynie Holiday Village which was a sprawling affair with various types of accommodation located on Loch Goil.   It was always going to be a lesser quantity than Gleneagles but the Lodge we booked was pretty good with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a lounge and great terrace overlooking the lake and overshadowed by the mountains.  The kitchen was okay but it looked that no one did much cooking as the village shop was pretty basic and the nearest food outlet was the  expensive and original Loch Fyne restaurant and delicatessen where we shopped once and had a very tasty fish and chips.  While at Drymsynie, we took kayaks out on the loch where we saw countless seals and a few dolphins and we also rented a boat for a couple of hours on another day.  There’s not a bad nine hole course where we played some night golf with hastily-delivered flourescent golf balls (no green fee paid but don’t tell anyone!) and we had several great walks in the almost primeval woods with streams and moss-lined rocks.

The nine-holer at Drymsynie

My son and I exploring the woods around Drymsynie

Midweek through our stay at Drymsynie, I drove the  2 ½ hours round Loch Fyne and down the peninsula to explore the Machrihanish golf courses and hotels.  There are two courses – the Old course which is adjacent to the Ugadale Hotel, the pub, the smart clubhouse and the lodges – and the New which is a five-minute drive away.  There’s also a third hotel, The Royal, on the seafront of Campeltown five miles away.

Machrihanish Old

The quiet cul-de-sac up to Machrihanish is lined with impressive houses and then you hit the jackpot as far as links-focused golf and accommodation is concerned.  The views are stunning from wherever you stay and play but it’s worth the small supplement to upgrade to a sea view bedroom.  All the bedrooms in the hotel are large and warmly decorated and you can’t help but imagine how nice it would be sitting in your armchair with a fortifying glass of the local spirit in your hand.   The lounges are just as relaxing.  The pub diner was doing a steady lunch trade with typical fare and I know a new Chef has started at the hotel so presumably their menu will be more upmarket.  The adjacent Lodges have been designed with the American market in mind with big beds in big bedrooms, a kitchen and lounge area and storage room…It’s ideal for four people who fancy spending more time in their own company rather than mingling with other guests.   I would give the comfort level of the Lodges and Ugadale a good four-star rating and happily recommend clients to go there.  The Old course doesn’t belong to the hotel despite it being 50 yards from the bedrooms.  It’s a superb plot for golf with the sea on one side and rolling hills (and a nearly-abandoned US Air Force base) on the other.   Easy to walk and very easy-on-the-eye, all 18 holes are good and combine their levels of difficulty to make a fair and fun round of golf.  The greens ran beautifully and I managed to put a good score in over a very brisk 2 ¼ hour/18 hole round.

Machrihanish New/Dunes

The New (Dunes) course takes some getting used to as the fairways are “rough” to say the least.  But deliberately so as it sits on a Site of Special Scientific Interest and very little machinery is allowed.  That said, the greens and bunkers are superb, the tees adequate and the turf brilliantly tight.  They say that the biting action of the sheep and the natural progression of the fescue grasses will make the fairways as good as the Old course down the road.  Time will tell but I would certainly play the New course again.    While I was there, the American owner of the destination was on-site with an architect (whose name I promised to withhold) and the Head Greenkeeper…Plans are afoot to build a large hotel and second golf course with the aim of hosting the Scottish Open; I don’t know where the spectators would stay, let alone the huge number of workers necessary to run such a tournament but you’ve got to think big to get big!   The course work begins late 2026/early 2027.

I also drove the 10 minutes into Campbeltown from/to where you can take a ferry and also fly from/to Glasgow.   It’s a small port town famous for its local distilleries and The Royal Hotel sits in prime position.   It’s another nice hotel full of charming features but I would prefer to be at The Ugadale or Lodges so I can walk to the golf course.

The highlight of the holiday? Everything got the big thumbs up, but our very favourite experiences were the stay at Gleneagles and the walks in the Drymsynie woods.  For golf, I would have to say Machrie was my favourite but I would very much like to also head back to Machrihanish for an intensive three-day golf break playing 27 holes a day with a few clubs in a carry bag and enjoying the low-key but charming atmosphere of the pub-diner.  Why isn’t Gleneagles mentioned for golf I hear you say?…Two reasons; secondly, I prefer links to parkland but the primary reason is that everything at Gleneagles is so good, the golf almost becomes secondary and there aren’t enough hours in the day to satisfy the desire to explore all that it has to offer.

Depending on your time, you could fly up to Glasgow and I can arrange a transfer or hire car for you.   Or take the short hop flight to either Machrie or Campeltown.   Machrie and Machrihanish are competitively-priced and offer excellent value for money.   Both are ideal for short stays and would make for a tremendous coastal links two-centre combination or combine either one with a luxury stay at Gleneagles.    Gleneagles is expensive but I get extra special rates most of the year and particularly midweek.

We travelled in summer but Scotland is famous for “four seasons in a day” so you take your chances a wee bit.  Machrie and Campeltown benefit from micro-climates and are playable all year whereas Gleneagles, located in mid-Scotland Perthshire, is more susceptible to the weather but the place is so lovely, I’d love to go back whatever the weather. Plus, let’s not forget that the treasures of Turnberry, Troon and the Ayrshire Coast are just 30 miles over the Firth of Clyde from Campeltown.  And last not but not least is Dundonald Lodges with three very fine courses nearby.  It truly is an area blessed by nature and the golfing Gods.

Example Itineraries (all based on two people in the party)

A Machrihanish

• Three nights’ bed and breakfast in a Classic Twin/Double bedroom at the four-star Ugadale Hotel, Machrihanish
• One round on Machrihanish New
• One round on Machrihanish Old

£599 per person between May 1 and September 30, 2026

B Machrie

• Return Caledonian MacByrne ferry travel with your car from Port Kennacraig to Port Ellen/Port Askaig
• Three nights’ bed and breakfast in a Classic Twin/Double bedroom at the four-star Machrie Hotel, Islay
• Two rounds at Machrie

£735 per person in May, June and September and £835 per person in July and August

C Two-centre holiday

• Three nights’ bed and breakfast in a Classic Twin/Double bedroom at the four-star Ugadale Hotel, Machrihanish
• One round on Machrihanish New
• One round on Machrihanish Old
• Return Caledonian MacByrne ferry travel with your car from Port Kennacraig to Port Ellen/Port Askaig
• Three nights’ bed and breakfast in a Classic Twin/Double bedroom at the four-star Machrie Hotel, Islay
• Two rounds at Machrie

£1275 per person in May, June and September and £1375 per person in July and August